Escrito por Iván el Domingo, 8 de junio del 2008 a las 15:33
En las cercanías de la localidad soriana de Berlanga de Duero se encuentra la ermita mozárabe de San Baudelio de Berlanga, enclavada en el duro territorio fronterizo de la extremadura soriana, presenta un exterior sencillo y austero (como el paisaje de la zona) que para nada anuncia su interior, rico y único. Su construcción data de finales del siglo XI, aunque se se sitúa sobre una cueva eremítica, en las cercanías de un manantial, relacionada con el culto a San Baudelio: mártir de Nimes, en el siglo IV.
Dos son los elementos que hacen que San Baudelio sea un lugar excepcional. Por un lado su original y compleja arquitectura, resultado de la unión de elementos de orientales y occidentales, y que genera elementos tan singulares como la columna central en forma de palmera o la parte baja del coro que recuerda las formas de una mezquita. Esta estructura arquitectónica se ve enriquecida por uno de los conjuntos murales románicos más importantes de la Península, cuya historia recordaremos para llegar a comprender el aspecto que tiene esta ermita en la actualidad.
San Baudelio tenía sus paramentos interiores totalmente decorados con escenas del Nuevo Testamento, representaciones de animales (elefantes, dromedarios, osos) y cacerías, motivos decorativos geométricos y otros que representan telas. La pintura es posterior al edificio, se suelen fechar como del final del siglo XII o principios del XIII, y es obra de por lo menos tres autores (o talleres) diferentes: el llamado Maestro de Maderuelo (al que pertenecerían los temas decorativos de arcos, bóvedas y las escenas bíblicas), el Maestro de Berlanga (autor de las escenas de caza y los animales exóticos) y un tercer maestro que realizó las pinturas del interior del coro.
Estas pinturas pasaron desapercibidas durante siglos con algunas zonas ocultas bajo enjalbegados de cal lo que hizo que el estado de conservación del conjunto mural fuese bueno. En 1919 el eminente historiador Manuel Gómez- Moreno publica el libro “Iglesias Mozárabes” y saca a la luz el conjunto de pinturas que hasta entonces había pasado desapercibido (aunque el edificio estaba declarado Monumento Nacional desde 1917). Esta publicación no debió de llamar la atención de las autoridades de la época, pero si de los coleccionistas y marchantes que se fijaron rápidamente en las pinturas.
En esos años los propietarios de la ermita eran los vecinos de Casillas de Berlanga (que la poseían dividida, fruto de sucesivas herencias); en 1922 el anticuario de origen judío León Leví (“perfil de maravedí” dice Gerardo Diego en un poema dedicado a la ermita) consigue hacerse con las pinturas por 60.000 pesetas. La repercusión de esta operación es grande y el Estado decide prohibir la venta de los murales. Vendedores y compradores recurrieron a los tribunales y en 1925 obtienen una sentencia a favor fallada por el Tribunal Supremo (el vacío legal de la época permitió que esto fuera posible, pero a partir de ese momento surgieron leyes de protección del patrimonio histórico).
En 1926, tras la eliminación de las capas de cal que ocultaban parte de las pinturas, expertos italianos llegan a San Baudelio para arrancar las pinturas murales. El edificio quedó desnudo y tan solo se salvaron las partes de difícil acceso (bóvedas y nervios). El proceso de extracción de las pinturas se hizo siguiendo la técnica italiana del strappo, con este sistema se extrae tan sólo la capa de pintura más superficial por lo que deja en el muro, tras el arranque, parte del dibujo, pero de forma desvaída.
En el año siguiente las pinturas fragmentadas en escenas, salen de España hacia Londres, allí tras ser montadas sobre lienzo, parten camino de Estados Unidos donde son comprados por el coleccionista y marchante Gabriel Dereppe de Nueva York que a su vez las vende a varios museos: al Museo de Arte de Indianápolis va a parar la “entrada de Jesús en Jerusalén”, al Museo de Cincinati el “halconero” y al Museo Metropolitano de Nueva York varias escenas de caza y animales.
Pero el periplo no acaba aquí, en 1957 algunas de las pinturas se encuentran en el Museo Metropolitano de Nueva York, que propone cambiarlas por el ábside románico de la Iglesia de Fuentidueña en Segovia para incorporarlo a una de sus sedes, el Museo de Los Claustros . El Estado español aceptó de inmediato este “depósito indefinido” y estas pinturas son las que se exponen actualmente el Museo del Prado (en una sala en el sótano que pasa bastante desapercibida para la mayoría de visitantes).
Mientras tanto en la ermita, despojada de su epidermis pictórica, los problemas de conservación eran cada vez más importantes…
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Realizado el Sábado, 30 de abril del 2016 a las 18:59
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Realizado el Sábado, 30 de abril del 2016 a las 19:33
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Realizado el Sábado, 30 de abril del 2016 a las 20:32
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Realizado el Sábado, 30 de abril del 2016 a las 21:28
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Realizado el Sábado, 30 de abril del 2016 a las 21:31
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